Buying
your home | Refinancing your home | Getting
a home equity credit line
If
you're like most people, buying a home is the biggest
investment you'll ever make. Annual mortgage,
taxes and insurance costs can range from 25% to 40%
of your gross annual income.
By visiting this reference page, you're on your way to
protecting yourself, and making the home-buying process easier by becoming an
informed consumer.
Read, talk to family, friends and real estate professionals. You'll
be glad you took the time to understand the process.
- Looking
for a home without being pre-approved.
Pre-approval and pre-qualification are two different
things. During the pre-qualification process, a loan officer asks you a
few questions, then hands you a "pre-qual" letter. The pre-approval process
is much more thorough.
During the pre-approval process, the mortgage company
does virtually all the work associated with obtaining full-approval. Since
there is no property yet identified to purchase, however, an appraisal and title
search aren't conducted.
When you're pre-approved, you have much more negotiating
clout with the seller. The seller knows you can close the transaction because
a lender has carefully reviewed your income, assets, credit and other relevant
information. In some cases (multiple offers, for example), being pre-approved
can make the difference between buying and not buying a home. Also, you
can save thousands of dollars as a result of being in a better negotiating situation.
Most good RealtorsŪ will not show you homes until you
are pre-approved. They don't want to waste your, their, or the seller's
time.
Many mortgage companies will help you become pre-approved
at little or no cost. They'll usually need to check your credit and verify
your income and assets.
- Making
verbal (oral) agreements!
If an agent tries to make you sign a written document
that is contrary to their verbal commitments, don't do it! For example,
if the agent says the washer will come with the home, but the contract says it
will not--the written contract will override the verbal contract. In fact,
written contracts almost always override verbal contracts. When buying
or selling real estate, abide by this maxim: Get it in writing!
- Choosing
a lender because they have the lowest rate. Not
getting a written good-faith estimate.
While rate is important, you have to consider the overall
cost of your loan. Pay close attention to the APR, loan fees, discount and origination
points. Some lenders include discount and origination points in their quoted
points. Other lenders may only quote discount points, when in fact there
is an additional origination point (or fraction of a point).
This difference in the way points are sometime quoted
is important to you. One lender will quote all points, while another lender
may disclose an extra point, or fraction thereof, at a later time--an unwelcome
surprise.
Within 3 working days after receipt of your completed
loan application, your mortgage company is required to provide you with a written
good-faith estimate (GFE) of closing costs. You may want to consider requesting
a GFE from a few lenders before submitting your application. With a few
GFEs to compare, you can get a feel for which lenders are more thorough, and
you can educate yourself regarding the costs associated with your transaction. The
GFE with the highest costs may not indicate that a particular lender is more
expensive than another--in fact, they may be more diligent in itemizing all fees.
The cost of the mortgage, however, shouldn't be your
only criteria. There is no substitute for asking family and friends for
referrals and for interviewing prospective mortgage companies. You must
also feel comfortable that the loan officer you are dealing with is committed
to your best interests and will deliver what they promise.
- Choosing
a lender because they are recommended by your
RealtorŪ.
Your Realtor is not a financial expert. He or she
may not know which loan is best for you. Your RealtorŪ gets a commission
only when your transaction closes. As a result, the RealtorŪ may refer
you to a lender who will close your loan, but who may not have the best rates
or fees. Also, many RealtorsŪ refer you to one of their friends in the
loan business--who also may not have the best rates or fees. Although most RealtorsŪ are
professional and concerned about your best interests, you should do your own
homework.
We recommend shopping for a loan with at least three
mortgage companies before you make a decision. There are countless stories
of consumers who ended up paying higher rates, or got a loan that wasn't right
for them, because they blindly followed their Realtor'sŪ advice.
- Not
getting a rate lock in writing.
When a mortgage company tells you they have locked your
rate, get a written statement detailing the interest rate, the length of the
rate lock, and other particulars about the program.
- Using
a dual agent (an agent who represents the buyer
and seller in the same transaction).
Buyers and sellers have opposing interests. Sellers
want to receive the highest price, buyers want to pay the lowest price. In
most situations, dual agents cannot be fair to both buyer and seller. Since
the seller usually pays the commission, the dual agent may negotiate harder for
the seller than for the buyer. If you are a buyer, it is usually better
to have your own agent represent you.
The only time you should consider using a dual agent,
is when you can get a price break (usually resulting from the dual agent lowering
their commission). In that case, proceed cautiously and do your homework!
- Buying
a home without professional inspections. Taking
the seller's word that repairs have been made.
Unless you're buying a new home with warranties on most
equipment, it is highly recommended that you get property, roof and termite inspections. These
reports will give you a better picture of what you're buying. Inspection
reports are great negotiating tools when it comes to asking the seller to make
repairs. If a professional home inspector states that certain repairs need
to be made, the seller is more likely to agree to making them.
If the seller agrees to make repairs, have your inspector
verify the completed work prior to close of escrow. Do not assume that
everything will be done as promised.
- Not
shopping for home insurance until you are ready
to close.
Start shopping for insurance as soon as you have an accepted
offer. Many buyers wait until the last minute to get insurance and find
they have no time left to shop around.
- Signing
documents without reading them.
Do not sign documents in a hurry. As soon as possible,
review the documents you'll be signing at close of escrow--including a copy of
all loan documents. This way, you can review them and get your questions
answered in a timely manner. Do not expect to read all the documents during
the closing. There is rarely enough time to do that.
- Making
moving plans that don't work.
You expect to move out of your current residence on Friday
and into your new residence over the weekend. Also on Friday, your lease
terminates and the movers are scheduled to appear.
Friday morning arrives: bags packed, boxes stacked, children
under arm and the dog on a leash; you're sitting on your front door stoop awaiting
the arrival of the movers.
Your phone rings. Your loan closing is delayed
until the following Tuesday. The new tenants turn into your driveway with
a weighted-down U-Haul and the movers pull up across the street.
You ask yourself, "Where's the nearest Motel 6 and storage
facility? How much will the movers charge for an extra trip? Can
we afford it?"
How can you avoid such a disaster? Cancel your
lease and ask the movers to show up five to seven days after you anticipate closing
your transaction. Consider the extra expense an insurance policy. You're
buying peace of mind--and protecting yourself from expensive delays.
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- Refinancing
with your current lender without shopping around.
Your current lender may not have the best rates and programs.
Believing it's easier to work with your current lender
is a common misconception. In most cases, they'll require the same documentation
as other lenders and mortgage brokers. This is because most loans are sold
on the secondary market and have to be approved independently. Even if
you've been good at making payments to your existing lender, they'll still have
to process the verifications all over again.
- Not
doing a break-even analysis.
Determine the total transaction costs and how much you'll
save each month by lowering your monthly mortgage payment. Divide the transaction
costs by the monthly savings to determine the number of months you'll have to
stay in the property to recoup your refinancing costs.
For example, if the costs of refinancing total $2000,
and you save $50 per month, you break-even in 2000/50 = 40 months. In
this case, you should only refinance if you plan to stay in the home for at least
40 months.
Note: The
above example is
suited to comparing
two similar loans
when the intent
is to lower your
monthly payment
and recoup transaction
costs relatively
quickly. Other
refinancing transactions
require different
kinds of analyses
which are beyond
the scope of this
document. Other
types of refinancing
transactions include
exchanging a fixed
rate for an ARM,
or a 30 year mortgage
for a 15 year mortgage.
- Not
getting a written good-faith estimate of closing
costs.
Within 3 working days after receipt of your completed
loan application, your mortgage company is required to provide you with a written
good-faith estimate of closing costs.
- Paying
for a home appraisal when you think the appraised
value may be too low.
Have the appraisal company conduct a Desktop/drive-by
appraisal and provide you with a range of possible values. Your mortgage
company can ask an appraiser to do this for you.
Do not waste your money on a complete appraisal if you
believe the home is unreasonably priced.
- Using
the county tax assessor's value as the market
value of your home.
Mortgage companies do not use the county tax assessor's
value to help determine if they'll originate your loan. They, like real estate
agents, usually use the sales comparison approach (formerly known as the market
data comparison approach).
- Signing
documents without reading them.
Do not sign documents in a hurry. As soon as possible,
review the documents you'll be signing at close of escrow--including a copy of
all loan documents. This way, you can review them and get your questions
answered in a timely manner. Do not expect to read all the documents during
the closing. There is rarely enough time to do that.
- Not
providing your mortgage company with documents
in a timely manner.
When your mortgage company asks you for additional paperwork--get
cracking! They're trying to get you approved! If you don't quickly
respond to your broker's requests, you could end up paying higher rates should
your rate lock expire.
- Not
getting a rate lock in writing.
When a mortgage company tells you they've locked your
rate, get a written statement detailing the interest rate, the length of the
rate lock, and other particulars about the program.
- Drawing
against your home equity credit line before you
refinance your first mortgage.
Many lenders have "cash-out" seasoning requirements. If
you draw against your credit line for anything other than home improvements,
they'll consider your first mortgage refinance transaction a "cash-out" refinance. This
creates stricter lending requirements and can, in some cases, break your deal!
- Getting
a second mortgage before you refinance your first
mortgage.
Many mortgage companies look at the combined loan amounts
(i.e., the sum of the first and second loans) when you are refinancing only your
first loan. If you plan on refinancing your first loan, check with your
mortgage company to see if having a second loan will cause your refinance to
be turned down.
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- Not
checking to see if your credit line has a pre-payment
penalty clause.
If you are getting a "NO FEE" credit line, chances are
it has a pre-payment penalty clause. This can be very important (and expensive)
if you are planning to sell or refinance your home in the next three to five
years.
- Getting
too large a credit line.
When you get too large a credit line, you can be turned
down for other loans. Some lenders calculate your credit line payments
based upon the available credit, even when your credit line has a zero balance.
Having a large credit line indicates a large potential payment, which makes it
difficult to qualify for loans.
- Not
understanding the difference between an equity
loan and a credit line.
An equity loan is closed--i.e., you get all your money
up front, then make payments on that fixed loan amount until the loan is paid. An
equity credit line is open--i.e., you can get an initial advance against the
line, then reuse the line as often as you want during the period the line is
open. Most credit lines are accessed through a checkbook or a credit card. Credit
line payments are based upon the outstanding balance.
Use an equity loan when you need all the money up front--e.g.
home improvements or debt consolidation.
Use a credit line if you have an ongoing need for money
or need the money for a future event--e.g., you need to pay for your child's
college tuition in three years.
- Not
checking the lifecap on your equity line.
Many credit lines have lifecaps of 18%. Be prepared
to make high interest payments if rates move upwards.
- Getting
a credit line from your local bank without shopping
around.
Many consumers get their credit line from the bank with
which they have their checking account. Shop around before deciding to
use your bank.
- Not
getting a good-faith estimate of closing costs.
Within three working days after receipt of your completed
loan application, your mortgage company is required to provide you with a written
good-faith estimate of closing costs.
- Assuming
that the interest on your home credit line/loan
is tax deductible.
In some instances, the interest on your home credit line
is NOT tax deductible.
It is beyond the scope of this document to provide tax
advice or quote from the IRS code. Contact an accountant or CPA to determine
your particular situation.
- Assuming
a home equity line is always cheaper than a car
loan or a credit card.
A credit card at 6.9% can be cheaper than a credit line
at 12%, even after the tax deduction. To compare rates, compare the effective
rate of your credit line with the rate on a credit card or auto loan.
Effective rate = rate * (1 - tax bracket)
Example: If the rate of the home equity credit
line is 12% and your tax bracket is 30%, your effective rate is12% * (1 - 0.3) = 12% * 0.7 = 8.4%
If your credit card is higher than 8.4%, the credit line
is cheaper.
Besides the interest rate, you may also want to compare
monthly payments and other terms of the loan.
- Getting
a home equity credit line if you plan to refinance
your first mortgage in the near future.
Many mortgage companies look at the combined loan amounts
(i.e., the first loan plus the equity line/loan) even though they are refinancing
only the first mortgage. If you plan on refinancing your first loan, check
with your mortgage company to determine if getting a second line/loan will cause
your refinance to be turned down.
- Getting
a home equity credit line to pay off your credit
cards if your spending is out of control!
When you pay off your credit cards with your credit line,
don't put your home on the line by charging large amounts on your credit cards
again! If you can't manage the plastic, get rid of it!
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